Prokletije: The Cursed Mountains

Prokletije — "the cursed" in Serbo-Croatian — straddles Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo. It's the southernmost and most rugged section of the Dinaric Alps, with vertical limestone walls dropping straight from 2,500 m summits into glacial cirques. There are no cable cars, two paved roads, and a population density of roughly four people per square kilometre.

The route

Start in Plav (1,000 m), drive 12 km of paved road up to the village of Vusanje, then turn onto the gravel forestry road towards the Albanian border. The track climbs through beech forest to the Bjeluha pasture (1,840 m), drops into the Ropojana valley, and exits back into Plav via Gusinje. Total distance 58 km, total time 4–5 hours with stops.

Vehicle requirements

• check_circleHigh clearance (200 mm+).
• check_circleLow-range transfer case — there is one rocky climb where you'll need first-gear-low.
• check_circleAll-terrain tyres preferred over road tyres.
• check_circleSpare wheel mounted and inflated.

From the MontenegroDrive fleet: Dacia Duster 4x4, Suzuki Jimny, Jeep Renegade Trailhawk. The Polo and front-wheel-drive crossovers are not suitable.

Stops worth making

• check_circleVolušnica lookout (Vusanje) — first view of the Karanfili wall.
• check_circleGrebaje valley meadow — alpine wildflowers, June only.
• check_circleThe Ali-paša springs — turquoise water out of the rock face, swim if you dare (4°C).
• check_circleRopojana wild horse herd — usually grazing the upper meadow late afternoon.

Practical notes

You're driving along the Albanian border for 8 km — keep your passport and rental documents in the door pocket. There is no fuel between Plav and Gusinje (35 km apart). Mobile coverage drops between Vusanje and Ropojana for about 90 minutes; download offline maps. Don't attempt this route between November and May — the upper sections are under snow.